Velika Planina is an alpine plateau in the Kamnik–Savinja Alps and is home to one of the largest herdsmen settlements in Europe. The settlement includes about 140 traditional huts, used for summer livestock pastures. As a visitor, you can experience what life on the plateau was like in the past while enjoying spectacular views of the Kamnik–Savinja Alps and the Ljubljana Basin. Several huts also offer the chance to taste traditional local food, making the visit both scenic and cultural.
Our visits to Velika Planina
We have visited Velika Planina several times. Unlike many other alpine destinations, it’s quite easy to reach from Ljubljana and the surrounding area. We especially enjoy walking across the plateau, soaking up the unique atmosphere, walking among the cows and traditional huts, and taking in the spectacular views.
Description of Velika Planina
Velika Planina is an alpine plateau with an average elevation of 1,500 meters, reaching its highest point at 1,666 meters near the top station of the cable car. The plateau has been used as livestock pasture since ancient times, though no one knows exactly for how long. It is believed that farmers turned to the plateau because there was limited space in the valley below. Traditionally, it has been mainly the farmers from the town of Kamnik who have used Velika Planina for grazing their livestock.
Tourism on Velika Planina began to develop during the 19th century, as people started visiting the mountains to enjoy the peace and natural beauty. In 1910, the first alpine hut was built, and in 1960, a cable car was constructed, making it even easier for visitors to reach the plateau.
Life on Velika Planina has changed significantly over time, but enthusiasts are working hard to preserve its cultural heritage. Today, visitors can explore the traditional huts and see how herdsmen once lived. You can also sample a variety of local specialties, including sour milk, butter, cottage cheese, and trnič, a unique smoked mountain cheese. Other traditional dishes include Jota (bean and sauerkraut stew), Ričet (barley stew), goulash, sausage with sauerkraut, buckwheat žganci, and Štruklji (rolled dumplings with cottage cheese).
In the summer months, Velika Planina is still full with livestock. The cattle are driven up to the plateau at the end of June and remain there as long as the weather allows. Each herd has a lead cow with a large bell, guiding the rest of the animals. The cattle usually stay until the end of August, or at the latest, the beginning of September.
The huts on Velika Planina are unique. Traditionally, they were round with roofs that extended almost to the ground, designed to withstand the strong mountain winds. The roofs were made of spruce planks. Just before the end of World War II, all the original huts were burned down by the Germans. The new huts that were rebuilt are not all round, but their roof construction still follows traditional methods.
How to Get There
To get to Velika Planina from Ljubljana, there are two main options.
-
Cable car from Kamniška Bistrica – Drive to Kamniška Bistrica and take the cable car up to Velika Planina. During the high season, a round-trip ticket costs €29.
-
Drive and short hike – Drive via Kamnik as far as it is possible toward Velika Planina, then hike for about 30 minutes up to the plateau. The easiest way to find the route is to select Show on map in the app’s top-right menu. The drive is about 50 km from Ljubljana and takes roughly 1 hour and 30 minutes. At the time of writing, the park access fee is €10.
Things to Do
The most important activity on Velika Planina is hiking—the best way to experience the surroundings, traditional culture, unspoiled nature, and great views.
Hiking – On Velika Planina, several hiking trails loop around the entire plateau, offering fantastic views and memorable nature experiences. If you’re reading this in our app, select Hiking directions in the upper-right menu to see how to get from the parking area to the trails on Velika Planina.
Where to Stay
On Velika Planina, you can experience what it’s like to sleep in a traditional alpine hut, absorbing the plateau’s unique culture and atmosphere.
- Chalet Zlatorog - Experience Velika Planina by staying overnight in a traditional alpine hut.
- Huts and apartments - Rent a traditional hut on Velika Planina directly from a private host.
Places to Eat
On Velika Planina, there are several restaurants serving traditional alpine cuisine.
- Zeleni Rob - A traditional restaurant on Velika Planina serving classic alpine dishes. To reserve a table, email booking@velikaplanina.si.
- Slovenia Eko Resort - A restaurant in nature with beautiful surroundings, located just below Velika Planina.
