Over the past 15–20 years, a culinary trend has emerged in Slovenia that focuses on refining traditional Slovenian dishes, using locally sourced organic products, and supporting local farmers and producers. Much of this trend can be attributed to the Michelin-starred restaurant Hiša Franko and its owners, Ana Roš and Valter Kramar. Hiša Franko is located in the Soča Valley, one of the most beautiful and unspoiled regions of Slovenia.
The history of Hiša Franko
Much has been written about the history of Hiša Franko (House Franko) in Slovenia, but the story may not be as well known internationally. The restaurant was founded by Valter Kramar’s father in the 1970s. In 2000, it was taken over by Valter Kramar and his then-partner, Ana Roš.
Ana Roš had no prior experience as a chef, but after the head chef resigned, she had to take over the kitchen. The early years were challenging, but over time, she and her partner built a remarkable restaurant by creating a network of local suppliers. The menu is very original and focuses on local products, many of which are found only in the Soča Valley. The restaurant represents a kind of antithesis to globalization, aiming to preserve authenticity while developing the dishes into something unique.
For more detailed information, we recommend watching Michelin’s promotional video below.
There is also a fascinating episode of Chef’s Table on Netflix about Hiša Franko.
Soča valley and Its Surroundings
Twenty years ago I almost bought a summer house in the village of Livek above the Soča Valley. The down payment was paid but a rogue real estate agent decided to take a higher offer. In retrospect it was probably a good thing as the place is a bit too far from my friends and family in Slovenia. But the charm of the Soča Valley is hard to resist.
The Soča Valley is considered a remote place in Slovenia. On the map, it may seem close to Ljubljana, but the Julian Alps lie in between. To reach the valley from Ljubljana, you must either drive through Kranjska Gora via the Vršič Pass or go the other way through the Vipava Valley. In practice, it is easier to reach Hiša Franko from Udine in Italy.
Is the detour worth it? Absolutely! The Soča Valley, with the Soča River (Isonzo in Italian), is one of the most beautiful regions in Slovenia. In addition to visiting Hiša Franko, there are many other activities and experiences to enjoy. This blog will cover the Soča Valley in a separate post, but you can already read about the Mangart saddle and the Trenta Valley in dedicated posts.
Our Trip
For our visit to Hiša Franko we decided to travel by car over the Vršič Pass. We took the opportunity to stop at several places along the way to look at the amazing nature. It is a journey that takes about 2.5 hours without stopping. Since the visit to the restaurant was in the evening, we chose to sleep nearby.
We spent the night in a small house in the village of Drežnica, located on a plateau above the Soča Valley beneath Mount Krn. The village lies within Triglav National Park, and the surrounding natural beauty makes for an unforgettable experience.
Our Dinner at Hiša Franko
Our dinner at Hiša Franko exceeded all expectations. We chose the 6-course menu with the accompanying Slovenian wine package. We highly recommend choosing the Slovenian wine pairing, as it offers a great opportunity to explore local wines while perfectly matching the dishes.
What We Ate
- Referemented Tolmin cheese lollipops
- Pickled sardine, carrot, tomato water, shallot jam
- Goat cottage cheese ravioli, corn, hazelnuts
- Trout, whey, roasted poppy seeds, beets in tonka vinegar
- Tripe cooked in wild game juice, Tolminc refermented in a pit, wild mushrooms and fried nettles
- Bear, trout, honey and berries
- Summer pear, black currant, sour milk, nasturtium
You can learn more on Hiša Frankos website and also make a reservation.
Other Places in the Area
There are many things to see in the Soča Valley. If you’re reading it in our app, you can select Show on map in the menu at the top right to see their locations.
- Napoleon’s bridge - Located just outside Kobarid on the way to Drežnica, this stone bridge was built in 1750 by Napoleon’s troops during their march to the Predel Pass. It spans the Soča River at its narrowest point.
- Kozjak waterfall - Kozjak river waterfall.
- River Soča viewpoint - scenic viewpoint of the Soča river.
- Drežnica - location of Drežnica village mentioned in the article.
Where to Stay
There aren’t many hotels in the Kobarid area of the Soča Valley, but there are plenty of villas and apartments available for rent. If you’re looking for a hotel, the town of Bovec, further up the valley, is your best option. Bovec is approximately 25 km from Kobarid.
- Hostel Kobarid - Hostel outside the town of Kobarid.
- Apartment Hlapi - Apartments with spa facilities located in the town of Kobarid.
- Boutique Hotel Dobra Vila - A beautiful boutique hotel in the town of Bovec.
- Villas and apartments - Villas and apartments for rent in the area.
