Hiša (House) Polonka is a gostilna / trattoria run by Valter Kramar, co-owner of the three-Michelin-star restaurant Hiša Franko. It offers a completely different experience from Hiša Franko, with a strong focus on simplicity, charm, and authenticity in a homely setting. The atmosphere is relaxed and welcoming, and the menu is built around local ingredients and traditional dishes. The restaurant is located in the town of Kobarid in the Soča Valley.
The Town of Kobarid
Kobarid (Italian: Caporetto, German: Karfreit) is a town in western Slovenia, near the border with Italy. The town has a turbulent history, as it has long been located at the crossroads of several empires.
During World War I, Kobarid was part of the Soča (Isonzo) Front, fought between Austria-Hungary and Italy. Before World War I, it was part of the Austro-Hungarian Monarchy, but after the war it became part of Italy. Following World War II, Kobarid became part of Yugoslavia, and since Slovenia’s independence, it has been part of Slovenia.
The town is located in the southern Alpine region, which gives it a distinctive character. Both the architecture and the surrounding nature show influences from the Adriatic region, creating a slightly disorienting impression—you are never quite sure whether you are in the Alps or near the Adriatic Sea.
About Hiša Polonka
The restaurant was opened by Valter Kramar in 2017, while still actively involved in Hiša Franko. The aim was to create a restaurant focused on local traditional dishes, including recipes once served at Hiša Franko by his parents. For many years, it was difficult to find restaurants in the Kobarid area offering typical dishes from the Soča Valley—something this project set out to change.
In addition to the food, they produce their own craft beer and offer a wide selection of natural wines from the nearby wine regions of Goriška Brda and the Vipava Valley. Although the restaurant is located in Kobarid in the Alpine region, it is only about 50 km from these wine regions.
The restaurant is located in a renovated house in the centre of Kobarid. The rustic wooden interior has been preserved, and when you enter, it feels like stepping back in time.
All the tables and chairs are made of wood and they do not look the same. Painted but still with chipped paint. No walls in the old house are straight. The light blue color of the chairs, doors and facade gives the feeling that you are close to the Adriatic sea but still not. It is the same feeling that you get in parts of the Soča Valley, which is on the border between the Alpine region and the Adriatic region.
You can read more about Hiša Polonka on their website. To reserve a table, email info@polonka.si or call +386 59 958 194.
The Dishes
The Soča Valley, like many other regions in Slovenia, has its own unique cuisine. Its isolation and proximity to Italy have both influenced the local food culture. Many of these traditional dishes can be found at Hiša Polonka.
- Franko‘s English roastbeef – Hiša Polonka’s signature dish, also a signature dish at Hiša Franko when the restaurant was run by Valter Kramar’s parents in the 1970s.
- Bruschetta - With cottage cheese from the mountains above the Soča Valley and candied tomatoes.
- Frika – A traditional shepherd’s dish from the Soča Valley, made with potatoes and local cheese. It is also popular in neighbouring Friuli in Italy.
- Gnocchi - Homemade gnocchi (called njoki in Slovenia), served with lamb bakala, a traditional stew from nearby Idrija.
- Žlikrofi - The Slovenian version of ravioli originating from the neighboring town of Idrija. Served with pesto and sometimes walnuts.
- Cheeses - A selection of local Tolminc cheeses from different altitudes and ageing periods.
- Trout - From the Soča River served with cauliflower soufflé and lentils.
- Štrukli - Traditional Kobarid dumplings served with walnuts and melted butter. Štrukli is a dish found throughout Slovenia with many local variations.
How to Get Here
The town of Kobarid is located in a region somewhat remote from central Slovenia and the capital, Ljubljana. To reach Kobarid, you must travel around the Julian Alps. Paradoxically, it is often easier to get there from Italy. From Ljubljana, there are a few travel options.
- Drive through the Vipava Valley to Nova Gorica, then turn north into the Soča Valley. The route is about 150 km and takes approximately 2 hours and 15 minutes.
- Drive to Kranjska Gora, cross the Vršič Pass, and descend into the Soča Valley. The distance is roughly the same as option 1, but the journey takes slightly longer as you drive over the Julian Alps.
For us, it was option one, as we had been on an excursion in the Vipava Valley earlier that day.
If you are reading this in our app, you can tap Show on map in the top-right menu to get directions to the restaurant from your current location.
Our Dinner at Hiša Polonka
After a long day of sightseeing, we arrived at the restaurant at 18:00. We had reserved a table in advance on the Thursday evening before Easter. The restaurant quickly filled up, so it was a good thing we had booked ahead. The guests were a mix of English- and Italian-speaking tourists, as well as locals speaking their regional Slovenian dialect. This mix created a relaxed and homely atmosphere.
We decided to try the local dishes to explore the specialties of the Soča Valley. I also chose to try their craft beer, Feo Pale Ale. The dishes we ate:
- Žlikrofi - Idrija Žlikrofi with walnuts and pesto.
- Gnocchi - Homemade Gnocchi (Njoki).
- Trout - From the Soča river.
- Roasted lamb - With polenta and buckwheat.
The dishes we tried were simple, tasty, and a great representation of the Soča Valley and the surrounding region. The craft beer was also excellent.
In retrospect, we think it was a shame that we didn’t get to try the restaurant’s signature dishes. Both the roast beef and the bruschetta looked fantastic. We would also like to try their selection of natural wines. All of this gives us good reason to return and explore the restaurant further.
Other Places in the Area
There are many things to see in the Soča Valley. If you’re reading it in our app, you can select Show on map in the menu at the top right to see their locations.
- Napoleon’s bridge - Located just outside Kobarid on the way to Drežnica, this stone bridge was built in 1750 by Napoleon’s troops during their march to the Predel Pass. It spans the Soča River at its narrowest point.
- Kozjak waterfall - Kozjak river waterfall.
- River Soča viewpoint - scenic viewpoint of the Soča river.
- Drežnica - location of Drežnica village mentioned in the article.
Where to Stay
There aren’t many hotels in the Kobarid area of the Soča Valley, but there are plenty of villas and apartments available for rent. If you’re looking for a hotel, the town of Bovec, further up the valley, is your best option. Bovec is approximately 25 km from Kobarid.
- Hostel Kobarid - Hostel outside the town of Kobarid.
- Apartment Hlapi - Apartments with spa facilities located in the town of Kobarid.
- Boutique Hotel Dobra Vila - A beautiful boutique hotel in the town of Bovec.
- Villas and apartments - Villas and apartments for rent in the area.
