On the last Saturday in March, I cycled from Radovljica to Kranjska Gora and on to Planica. A long ride of almost 100 km there and back in brilliant sunshine. Especially on the stretch from Mojstrana to Kranjska Gora, you are rewarded with fantastic views of the Julian Alps. A large part of the route follows well-maintained cycle paths. The section between Mojstrana and Kranjska Gora is particularly well designed, as it runs along the old disused railway line between Ljubljana and Tarvisio in Italy.
I had originally planned to cycle only to Kranjska Gora and back. However, it turned out that it was the end of the ski jumping season in Planica, located in a neighbouring valley. Curiosity got the better of me, and I decided to continue all the way to Planica to watch the ski jumping event.
The Cycling Route
The cycling route from Radovljica to Planica can be divided into four sections.
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Radovljica - Žirovnica 9 km - This section follows mostly regular roads, although traffic is generally light. The route is mostly flat.
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Žirovnica - Mojstrana 19 km - This section follows a mix of regular roads and, after Jesenice, dedicated cycle paths. The route gradually climbs, with several short but steep sections, particularly beyond Jesenice.
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Mojstrana - Kranjska Gora 14 km - This is the best part of the route. You cycle along the old disused railway line that once connected Ljubljana and Tarvisio in Italy. The views over the valley and the Julian Alps are magnificent.
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Kranjska Gora - Planica 7 km - The cycle route continues along the disused railway line before turning up the valley towards Planica. The final section is uphill.
If you are reading this post in our app, you can tap Bicycling directions in the top-right menu to view the route.
In total, the elevation difference between Radovljica and Planica is about 500 meters, meaning the ride is mostly uphill on the way there and downhill on the way back. On the return journey, you are often surprised by how much climbing you actually did on the way up.
If you choose to start the bike tour in Bled instead, there are two options. The first is to cycle to Lesce to connect with the bike route towards Žirovnica. The cycle path between Bled and Lesce is in good condition. The second option is to cycle the other way via Zgornje Gorje and Krnica, then descend into the Radovna Valley and continue to Mojstrana. This route climbs steadily up to Krnica, then levels out before descending towards Mojstrana, where you join the cycle path towards Kranjska Gora. This option is much more scenic, but also more demanding.
We will write about the bike path through the Radovna river Valley at a later date, hopefully later this spring.
Radovljica to Žirovnica Cycle route (9 km)
I started the bike ride around 8 in the morning, cycling from Radovljica to Lesce. From there, I continued under the motorway and through the village of Studenčice. The entire cycle route to Žirovnica runs through an open valley. The day before, there had been a storm, and although the wind had eased, there was still a strong headwind. Otherwise, the weather was sunny and springlike.
The cycle path between Radovljica and Žirovnica follows a mix of marked cycle routes on regular roads and smaller gravel roads.
Žirovnica to Mojstrana Cycle Route (19 km)
The section between Žirovnica and Mojstrana was the least enjoyable part of the ride, although it improved as I got closer to Mojstrana. From Žirovnica to Jesenice, you unfortunately have to cycle on a fairly busy road with a lot of traffic and no dedicated cycle path.
Jesenice is an old industrial town with a steel industry and is unfortunately not the most pleasant city for a cycle tour. When I entered Jesenice, I turned left over the Sava Dolinka River and then continued on the left side of the river. The narrow valley makes the city oblong and it is quite a few kilometers to get through the city.
Just before the toll station for the motorway tunnel to Austria, you cycle under the motorway and the cycle path becomes separated from traffic. From this point on, the route becomes much more enjoyable, with increasingly beautiful natural surroundings. There are a few short but steep climbs along the way, including sections of 17% and 15%. Many riders will need their lowest gear on these hills.
Mojstrana to Kranjska Gora Route (14 km)
Mojstrana is an alpine village located at the entrance to the Vrata Valley, one of the most important valleys on the northern side of the Julian Alps. As I cycled through the village centre, I had a fantastic view of the peaks rising above the valley.
On the other side of Mojstrana, I rejoined the cycle path. This section is the best along the entire route. It follows the former railway line that once connected Ljubljana and Tarvisio in Italy. Two of the old railway bridges over the Sava Dolinka River are still standing. Along the way, I enjoyed fantastic views of the Sava Dolinka River and the peaks of the Julian Alps. Watch the video above for a taste of the experience.
The entire cycle path slopes gently upwards, but it never feels particularly strenuous. Kranjska Gora is located at an altitude of 800 metres, about 300 metres higher than Radovljica.
Kranjska Gora
Kranjska Gora is Slovenia’s most important alpine resort. It hosts alpine skiing competitions, the most prominent of which is the Vitranc Cup, part of the FIS Alpine Ski World Cup. However, Kranjska Gora is also an important centre for summer sports such as cycling, hiking, and climbing.
The development of Kranjska Gora as a sports centre took off after World War II, when the ski lifts and slopes were expanded.
When I arrived in Kranjska Gora, it was full of activity. There were many events taking place and plenty of visitors, largely due to the ski jumping in the neighbouring valley.
On the square by the church, I stopped for lunch at a street food stall serving Slovenian alpine food. After cycling more than 40 kilometres, I was very hungry. I had Jota, a traditional Slovenian stew made with sauerkraut and beans. I also had Carniolan sausage, a specialty from the Gorenjska region of Slovenia.
Kranjska Gora to Planica Route (7 km)
The cycle path from Kranjska Gora continues along the old railway line. After about 5 kilometres, I turned left towards the Tamar Valley, where Planica is located. The final two kilometres follow a separate cycle path alongside the road up to Planica. The climb is quite steep.
Planica is located at an elevation of approximately 1,000 metres, about 500 metres higher than Radovljica.
Planica
Ski jumping has always been a major and popular sport in Slovenia. In recent years, the country has dominated the sport, largely thanks to a single family. Siblings Domen and Nika Prevc both won the World Cup this season in the men’s and women’s categories respectively. This has made the season finale in Planica an extremely popular event, attracting large numbers of Slovenian visitors.
The Planica Nordic Centre is located in the Tamar Valley, the last valley in the Julian Alps before the Italian border. The facility features several ski jumps, and the current world record of 246.5 metres was set in Planica.
When I arrived in Planica, the area was packed with visitors watching the ski jumping. I stayed for about an hour before heading back to Radovljica. Unfortunately, the event is not only about sport, but also sees excessive beer consumption.
Type of Bicycle
If you plan to cycle this route, we recommend a mountain bike with good gearing, as the terrain includes several ascents and descents, some of which are quite steep. For a more relaxed experience, an e-bike is a good alternative.
Bike rental is widely available in both Radovljica and Bled, with plenty of options for one-day or multi-day hire. However, during the high season it can get busy, so we recommend booking in advance. Below is a list of bike rental providers.
- Extreme Vital - A bike shop and rental company offering high-quality bikes, located a few hundred meters from our apartment in Radovljica. You can also call +386 4 515 77 12 to reserve your bike.
- Polka Dot Cycling - A large bicycle rental company located at the shopping centre just outside Bled. You can book via their websiteor call +386 31 54 49 59 or email info@polkadot.si to reserve a bike.
- AB Bike - A bike rental company located on the southwest side of the lake. Book via their website, email info@ab-bike.si or call +386 40 219 415.
Where to stay
If you want to do this trip over several days, there are many places along the way to stay overnight. There are both high-quality places and simpler places.
- Chalet Sofija - An exceptional chalet located on Srednji Vrh with a beautiful view of the Gozd Martuljek valley and the peaks above.
- Milka Boutique Hotel - Milka is both a high-end restaurant and hotel not far from Kranjska Gora.
- Mountain View Glamping - Apartments for rent with a great view Mojstrana and Vrata Valley.
- Villas and apartments - Many residents and owners of villas and apartments rent them out during the tourist season, and most of these properties are of a high standard.
Restaurants and cafes
Along the way there are countless restaurants and smaller places where you can stop as a cyclist for drinks and food, especially along the route Mojstrana - Kranjska Gora. Below are some selected restaurants of higher quality. But if you just want to eat something quickly, you can stop almost anywhere that looks nice.
- Milka - A 2 star Michelin restaurant that focuses on modern & classic dishes taking their ingredients from the surrounding alpine environment. You can reserve a table on their website.
- Restaurant Triangel - Mentioned in the Michelin guide. Located in Gozd Martuljek with a fantastic view of the mountains above. You can book a table here
